451-cabin-air-recirc-motor-noise.htm¶

1 excerpts.

451 Cabin Air Recirc Motor Noise¶

evilution.co.uk/mod/451-cabin-air-recirc-motor-noise.htm · p. 1 · Applies to: 451

Mod Details Premium No Difficulty Mod ID 1838 Credit evilution For Link https://evilution.co.uk/mod/451-cabin-air-recirc-motor-noise.htm Copy to Clipboard Clicketty Click Click Click Click Car is on, recirculation button pressed. Lots of plastic clicking noises and then silence. The problem is the motor that drives the recirculation flap. It sit’s on top of the cabin heater box inlet pipe which is over on the right hand side of the car. However, you knew that because it’s blatantly obvious where the noise is coming from. The problem is that, to access the motor, you need to remove the upper part of the dashboard . After that it’s simple, disconnect the electrical connector, remove some Torx 15 screws and you can lift the motor out. Fix Or Replace? With the motor off, see if the recirculation flap moves freely and isn’t being hindered. There’s no point doing all of the work if the issue that caused the problem still remains. If it moves ok, great. The noise you are hearing is damaged/stripped gears inside the unit. You could try opening the unit but you can’t buy the gears separately. Opening This is the actuator unit. It’s the same unit that is also used to move the heater blend flap. It’s nothing special and they are used in VW, Audi and Skodas. 5 pins and double check the warding on the connector if you are looking to buy a non smart one. They are clipped together all around. Just lever and pull all the way around… …until the top comes off. Now you can see the 3 cogs. This unit is ok and all of the gears are intact. Alessandro T had the clicking noise from his unit. As you can see, the small yellow gear has lost some teeth. These are the 2 cogs that fail although it’s usually the yellow one. Because there’s no way to get the gears separately, I decided to model them so people can try 3D printing their own. A site viewer called Christoffer S helped me fix the 5 degree angle on the yellow gear’s teeth. Download Your crappy 10 year old 3D FDM printer is unlikely to do a good job printing these. Ideally it needs to be printed in nylon. SLS printing is probably your best option. I would like to point out that I haven’t even tested these. Feel free to have a go and test them yourself. Let me know how you get on. I do not give you permission to print and sell them, they are for personal use only. 3D printers don’t do a great job of accurate holes so it’s recommended to use a correct size drill bit to drill the hole out. Alessandro says the angled teeth of the large yellow go aren’t quite the correct angle and the small yellow cog is a bit short. Click here – Tinkercad Replace For New? Contact smart and see if they still sell the unit. The part number is A4518290001. Get the price and then look on eBay for 2nd hand ones. Just in case someone is selling a 2nd hand one cheaper than a new one. (again, unlikely). Calibration I had an unusual issue with the recirc motor. It continuously made a noise. I would set the car to recirculate the air and as you’ll see in the video, it slowly closes the flap back to the fresh air setting. So I started up MB Star DAS with the intention of recalibrating the motor. N23 Heater Air Conditioning Operating Unit. Actuations. The issue is the motor we are trying to teach-in is the M39 but there was no option to calibrate that motor. So I ran the M16/8 teach-in calibration which is the heater blend flap. I clicked start and very quickly saw the teach-in process was successful. Immediately the M38 recirc motor stopped making the noise and doing what you saw in the video. So it looks like the teach-in process does both actuators. Click if info helped 9 likes 9077 views Print