youtube.com/pb_garage/smart_fortwo_451_oil_pan_replacement_2008_2015

4 excerpts.

Excerpt

youtube.com/pb_garage/smart_fortwo_451_oil_pan_replacement_2008_2015 · p. 1 · Applies to: 450, 451, 452, 453, 454, #1, ebike

hey guys welcome to project build today we're going to be looking at changing the oil pan on a smart 451 so this car here which i picked up a little while ago and i'm just giving it a refresh before i uh turn around and sell it um had a really bad oil leak and i noticed that the problem was the drain plug on the oil pan had stripped the threads out of the oil pan and it was leaking oil all over the place we can have a look at that so if we have a look in here you can see there's just oil all over the back of the motor here and all over the oil pan you can see i've already removed the drain plug it was very loose and just kind of pulled out anyways but um you can see it's been losing oil for quite a long time so today we're going to get in there and change that oil pan now i'm very lucky i have a spare motor here that i had gotten out of a parts car so i've got the ho i saved the whole cradle and everything before i sent most of the car to scrap and i've already gone ahead and removed my oil pan from it so just a couple of things that i want to look at real quick before we get into actually changing the oil pan on the car is i want to show you guys just a couple of things on this pan um first of all i want to show you guys there's a couple of bolts here that hold the ac compressor on there's actually a third bolt that um screws into the block up here so we're gonna have to undo those three to take the ac compressor off and then there's two bolts over here that hold coolant pipes to the oil pan they bolt to this oil pan here now these are going to be really tough to get at um because there's an engine support bracket like a motor mount bracket that sits right there so now that we have the oil pan out it's easy to see that here but when we get under the car it's gonna be a little bit more difficult but at least you guys have an idea looking at this right now okay so now that we're under the motor here we can see how tight everything is and how difficult it's gonna be to get out everything what i'm hoping and i've never done one of these before but what i'm hoping i'm going to be able to do is remove this dog bone here and then lower the front of the motor just a bit and try to get enough clearance so that i can get in and in particularly i think what's going to be difficult to get at is the two bolts that are holding those coolant lines on um i think it should be fairly easy to remove these bolts that are holding the ac compressor to the oil pan but if i can get those coolant line bolts out um i think the bolts for the pan itself are going to be not too tricky to get at so i'm going to start by pulling uh the two bolts out of this dog bone i'm going to take both out so i can take the whole dog bone out and just gain a bunch of clearance and hopefully a little bit better access there so i've got my jack holding the motor up here and then tools i've got an e20 external torx and an 18 mil wrench here to get those bolts out huh now with that motor mount out of the way you can see i've got a lot more clearance already to be able to get in here at my hardware then i need to get out but i'm going to lower my jack here just a little bit so that dog bone actually had quite a bit less weight on it than i thought obviously it's just stabilizing the motor and not actually supporting the weight of it very much so now i can move the motor a little bit more freely i can definitely get a little bit better access to my hardware up here but first before i try and get at that i'm actually just going to try and clean things up a little bit so i don't have rust falling my eyes the whole time so i know it's tough to see but right up in here we have a look you can see there's a bolt right here and it's got a 10 millimeter head and that's one of the two bolts that hold these coolant pipes on you can see this one's between two coolant pipes there's a coolant pipe there and there's another one on the other side here so this bolt right there i need to pull out in order to be able to pull that oil pan off now that other bolt is just up in here you can see it just up here okay so we're gonna try and get that bolt as well that's another 10 millimeter head on that bolt so we need to pull that guy off to be able to remove this big coolant pipe that's over here [Music]

Excerpt

youtube.com/pb_garage/smart_fortwo_451_oil_pan_replacement_2008_2015 · p. 2 · Applies to: 450, 451, 452, 453, 454, #1, ebike

okay guys i gave it a try um all i could do on those two bolts was get a flat like a box and wrench on it with a 12-point head and all i was going to do was um round the heads of those bolts off so instead of trying to keep do doing that what i'm gonna do is i'm going to loosen or remove these bolts for the subframe lower the whole cradle a little bit and then that should give me access to the top of the motor where i can remove the intake manifold and get out those two bolts and then undo the rest of the bolts around the edge of the oil pan and get the whole thing off so a bit of extra work that way but that's the way she goes so you can see here i've got the rear bolts a little bit longer and the front bolts a little bit shorter i'm actually going to just throw the rear bolt into the front spot and then i'm going to use some lowering bolts that i have in the rear and that'll allow me to not drop the subframe so much that i have to worry about the electrical and the brake line connections on the other side and i don't have to worry about the hand brake uh getting messed up so i'm going to just drop the cradle here as little as possible just enough to get in and do the work on top that i need to get at okay now we're into uh our super disgusting engine bay here you can see i've made a little bit of space for myself up here right by the firewall i can get in if i was doing an alternator uh it's easy to get at i've got a bit of space here so that i'll be able to maneuver this intake manifold out and i didn't lower the subframe very much at all just to get that little bit of clearance it's a little bit lower at the front than at the back and the reason for that is i didn't want to undo the rear bumper because actually if you look here there's a support for the rear bumper that's attached to that subframe so if you try and lower that too much you're likely to rip your bumper apart and i didn't want to take that all apart so i just kept that pretty high in the back a little bit lower in the front almost onto the bolt and like you can see there i've got quite a bit more space to work with so now that we've got that set up i'm going to start by removing this intake pipe and the air cleaner cover uh pull that air filter out as well just to give myself a little bit of space here and then i'm going to have to remove the fuel injector rail and fuel injectors and then there's a set of bolts just here at the intake manifold undo those and undo a couple of electrical connections and then that whole assembly should be able to be removed fairly easily i think [Music] [Music] you [Music] [Music] welcome back guys to the never ending saga that is removing this oil pan um as you can see this car is pretty rusty and it's giving me a lot of grief i ended up having to drop the subframe and motor onto my long service position bolts there so i've got everything really low which i was trying to avoid but i couldn't in the end um i had to remove the intake manifold so i had to pull this guy completely off which was a pain in the ass uh the bolts that hold it on aren't too bad but there's hose connections and electrical connectors that are clipped into this thing all the way around and it was quite difficult to get it out a lot of time spent there unfortunately so now i can get under the car undo all the bolts holding that oil pan on and finally after many hours pull that oil pan off [Music]

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youtube.com/pb_garage/smart_fortwo_451_oil_pan_replacement_2008_2015 · p. 3 · Applies to: 450, 451, 452, 453, 454, #1, ebike

and there we go finally off it's amazing how much oil is still in the pan despite the fact that that drain plug's been out of there for a couple of weeks once i started to pull them all pull the oil off you can see that one bolt here that was that i had to grind the head off that whole pan's quite disgusting just from that oil leak over the years now hopefully you guys didn't have that struggle to get the pan off and you've got your new pan ready to go on or in my case the used pan um all you need to do now is apply a little thin layer of sealant all the way around i'm going to use some moto seal uh you can use honda bond yamabond you know permatex black there's all kinds of products that'll do the job the only thing i want to say is uh don't apply a huge amount of sealant to your surface here because i've taken motors apart um fairly often and a few times what i'll see is guys that apply like a huge amount of sealant to that surface what happens when you tighten that up you get big blobs of sealant on the inside of the oil pan and then they fall off get uh sucked into the into the oil pickup and then block the screen on that oil pickup you get oil starvation and then cook your motor so be especially careful around the oil passage here as well with your sealant because if you um put too much on here and you get a blob that ends up falling off on the inside of this passage that's after the pickup screen which is your drain plug and it's going to get pulled into the oil pump and end up uh blocking oil passages in the motor so uh when you're doing this whole surface you know very light with the sealant you just need enough uh to form a little bit of a gasket between the pan and the motor because there's no paper gasket that goes on here and that's it and that's all you need i forgot to mention before i started to apply this that it is a good idea to uh clean that whole surface so i had cleaned it with a gasket scraper first and then um just a really soft abrasive uh just to remove everything and then i give it a wipe down with brake cleaner make sure that surface was good and clean so this will stick really well i'm gonna let this just flash for a second while i clean off uh the block the engine block and i did want to mention that i added a little bit of extra material over here because both oil pans that i removed um had a little bit of a gap here it seems that at this end of the oil pan the way the block is like there's a little uh plate that doesn't mate super perfectly like the the bottom edge of it's not super flush with the rest of the rest of the block there so there was a little bit more gasket material here on the pan that i took off which means there's a bit bigger of a gap there when everything's tightened down so i added a little bit extra as you can see there was some goop already up that passage a little bit now right here where i have obviously this o-ring i'm going to actually pull that guy off and make sure i don't damage it while i'm cleaning up this gasket surface here [Music] now i'm lucky because i had the drain plug out of this uh quite a long time ago the motor's been or the car has been sitting here half apart for about a week so a lot of the oils uh come down out of the motor if you're trying to do this in a weekend and you've driven the car in and you're driving driving car back out um there's a good chance you're gonna have oil that's still coming down from the walls of the of the block and ending up on your surface here so you have to be quick uh between when you clean that and uh get your oil pan in place with the sealant so that you don't get oil in between or so that you don't have a film of oil on this surface before you get your oil pan on now i've applied just a super super thin layer of sealant to that o-ring before putting it on because i am reusing the o-ring ideally i would have liked to have a new o-ring i don't have one handy so we're stuck having to reuse the same one so i'm just putting this very light coating of sealant to it to make sure that it sticks

Excerpt

youtube.com/pb_garage/smart_fortwo_451_oil_pan_replacement_2008_2015 · p. 4 · Applies to: 450, 451, 452, 453, 454, #1, ebike

i'm just trying to get the oil pan positioned properly so i can get all my bolts in and then i'm going to have them all in finger tight and then go around and torque everything down all right now i've got uh all my bolts tightened down and all the bolts are in i can see a little bit of sealant coming out around the edges of my oil pan so i know that it should be pretty well sealed up all there would be left to do had i not had the issues with the coolant pipe bolts and had to dismantle half the car here uh would be to reinstall those couple of bolts that are holding the coolant lines down that one steel clamp and the bolt over here and then the bolt over here that's holding that plastic um little housing i guess for the for the coolant line and i would be done i'd be able to fill my oil up after the sealant has set a little bit and drive away but in my particular case i've got quite a bit of car left to assemble um but that should be it for changing your oil pan hopefully you guys enjoyed this video if you want to see more smart car tech videos like this make sure you subscribe to the channel and we'll see you later [Music] you