door_panel_removal_investigating_door_locking_fault_2008_smart_fortwo_451_passio¶

4 excerpts.

Excerpt¶

youtube.com/auto_knight/door_panel_removal_investigating_door_locking_fault_2008_smart_fortwo_451_passio · p. 1 · Applies to: 450, 451, 452, 453, 454, #1, ebike

in this video I'm going to be removing the passenger door panel to try to understand why that door is not locking with the rest of the central Locking System in a recent shorts video I highlighted an issue that I've been having with the passenger door on my Smart where it isn't locking with the rest of the central Locking System now this has primarily been a hot weather problem and ironically the weather has now cooled down and it hasn't been happening but I'm still going to take the door panel off because a it'll be a great video for those curious about how to get the door panels off these cars and B there are some things I want to look at on the lock itself to see if I can actually resolve this issue or if I need to replace the component a few things to consider here first of all this whole operation is better with the window down this mirror and the associated trim components inside will need to be removed this seal will need to pull out and this door handle will need to be removed before the door panel itself can finally be removed from the car to get started we've got a couple of talks t20s one here and one just on the inside this pulls off and then we need to separate this uh these series of cables here which are the mirror adjuster cables there's a little tiny clip here which we lift which separates this mechanism from the trim next we've got a couple more here we've got T20 this enables this piece to be removed which exposes the remaining screws that hold the mirror onto the vehicle these t20s here once these two remaining screws are removed the mirror is free to leave the vehicle and be stored somewhere safe so a clumsy creature like me doesn't break it we now turn our attention to this handle this little lock Barrel lives under this cover and it's really important that this is released before we attempt to remove this door handle on this side this next step would not apply on the side that doesn't have the log Barrel just down from the two fixing bolts for the handle is this little clip right here it's like a little plastic rivet this needs to come out like many of these kind of Clips on these cars it is just a case of pushing in the insert in the middle and then easing this out it's very tight driving out the middle clip I'm hoping I don't have to destroy this to get this out it's free I'll definitely be needing a new one of those there is a T10 in here that needs to be unscrewed and removed next I remove these two p27 bolts that secure the door handle car door handle just pulls back and away [Applause] it's worth bearing in mind at this point that there are some connections to this which you can see right here these are the cables these cables are fairly easy to release because they just unclip and then you just remove foreign so connection to the door lock barrel for emergency access and the cable connection here for the actual door handle itself you can't get them the wrong way around because the actual little nipple on the end is of a different size it's now time to remove this weather strip it's extremely grimy underneath this is not very nice as you can see that's what we're getting a thorough clean before that goes back on the car next we remove this T25 right here everything is now unbolted and unclipped so it really is now just a case of removing this panel now it's just worth having a look in here just to be aware of the location of various clips and tabs before moving on to the next step so these don't get broken in any way these clips simply pull clear of

Excerpt¶

youtube.com/auto_knight/door_panel_removal_investigating_door_locking_fault_2008_smart_fortwo_451_passio · p. 2 · Applies to: 450, 451, 452, 453, 454, #1, ebike

metal bar inside these ones if you can see them in there these ones actually slop forwards and you'll understand more when I remove it and again the one in there they're in slots once they slot forward they can be removed so we slide this whole panel forward and that exposes the inner mechanisms and just to give some clarity on how these clips engage and why we had to pull the panel forward let me re-fit we'll be pushing the clip in here and then across which locks it into position in this area here so there's three of those so it starts here we slide it forwards it releases and then it's reverse when we refit in there and then across backwards and for reference these are the bits that locate in those recesses here here and here I'm storing the door panel safely on the roof of the car it's really easy to damage these if you put them on the concrete ground and at this point I'm going to raise the window because if I start lubricating this lock I run the risk of getting lubricant WD whatever I'm using on the glass I don't really want that [Music] now the door panel is off this gives us a really good insight into the construction of this door so you've got the side impact bar here protects you and obviously a steel frame to the door around the Outer Perimeter then here you've got the window regulator the motor is right behind and a series of cables and pulleys now I know that on the four five O's I was forever replacing these cables because they used to snap if not had to do one on one of these but this would be a good opportunity to lubricate these cables while we're here now moving on to the lock has an electrical connection but what I've been thinking is that when this vehicle doesn't actually lock on this side it presents in exactly the same way it would if the door was open and I try to look it so I'm thinking this door lock when this happens actually thinks it's open rather than shut this could be electrical it could be a linkage I think it's a good idea to lubricate all the linkages and as it's not doing it currently put it all back together and then see if there's an improvement when the next hot spell of weather comes along if we get one this year [Applause] thank you [Music] [Applause] [Music] everything has been cleaned because I'm me now back to the lock we can clearly see this cable here is what the door handle operates via and this mechanism here in terms of the Interior handle this cable comes in from the top and is on the back of the lock now to remove this lock will involve more dismantling primarily removal of this guide now I haven't got time to be pulling this whole door apart today I'm going to lubricate what I can see I'm thinking having looked in here I'm not finding some nasty corroded mess it's more than likely an electrical issue with this door and the Very fact that it's heat sensitive would suggest that that could be an issue with the electrical side of

Excerpt¶

youtube.com/auto_knight/door_panel_removal_investigating_door_locking_fault_2008_smart_fortwo_451_passio · p. 3 · Applies to: 450, 451, 452, 453, 454, #1, ebike

this lock but I'm going to lubricate what I can see on the off chance I'm going to spray some WD-40 right inside then I'm going to use some white grease which I use is great because it hangs around a lot longer than WD-40 and leaves a residue I'm actually getting this right inside the lock but having not dismantled one of these locks I don't really know what's in there whether I'm targeting the correct areas but hey let's just give it all a good squirt I can't really get to the back of this I'm going to squirt some in here anyway precautionarily but again I don't really know where that's going or what it's doing if this happens again and I do have to remove all of this I'm just going to put a new look in there and be done with it that is nicely protected with white grease I'm just going to apply a little bit to these window mechanisms as well you can't really do too much for these the surface they actually move against is behind the cables so it's a good idea to park the cables and give it a good squirt on the actual running surfaces it doesn't matter how it looks nobody sees it in here it's more important that it's nicely lubricated I'm just going to run a little bit of WD-40 down these cables as well just in case they're sticking sometimes on the four or five O's I used to find that water would get into the cables on a really cold day you'd pull the door handle open the cable would stick and then you wouldn't be able to shut either of the doors would happen on both sides it's a nightmare they're doing something like this might just help a little bit it's a tiny little rubber Gator here that you can see on here that you just removed and allow access to the cable where it enters the guide that is as much as I plan to do in there today so let's get this door panel back on CE you've checked around the Outer Perimeter that the whole door is on correctly all the way around it's then a case of relocating these lugs in these three openings and sliding The Door backwards like that that hole should line up this seal needs to be refitted I've cleaned this because it was really gungy to make it easier to fit this seal I put some WD-40 in this guy to help it to slide if this seal is fitted correctly it should come right up to here and just meet this seal and then this quarter light seal needs to go above quite often these seals move with type I don't know what how they move but quite often you end up with a gap here which can let water down in there some will get in there anyway but you don't need any more in there than you have to have so I repositioned these further back because they had moved now time to refit the door handle now again just to be sure I am going to lubricate this door handle initially with some WD and then some white grease as well two cables to reconnect the lower one which is for the lock Barrel so that little metal nipple thing goes in the recess and then that guide pushes it home into this bracket and then this one for the handle it's got the smaller metal nipple thing and this goes in here and then this engages in the plastic housing like that both are now connected [Music]

Excerpt¶

youtube.com/auto_knight/door_panel_removal_investigating_door_locking_fault_2008_smart_fortwo_451_passio · p. 4 · Applies to: 450, 451, 452, 453, 454, #1, ebike

this is now back in I will not pretend that that was easy I really had to wrestle with it fitting this tiny little screw all right the T25 that secures the door pedal to the frame roof is in the mirror and tightening the t20s refitting this trim [Music] to really fit that third mirror retaining screw tighten a couple of these little t20s snap the mirror control wires into position and refit this trip pushes down into place and then has the one retaining screw at the back another little T20 in terms of this well I won't be putting this mangled thing back in next time I'm at the Smart dealer I'll buy one of those I certainly won't be driving 20 something miles just for that done well I think we can safely chalk that one up as inconclusive but if it does play up again I will be replacing that whole lock I won't be mucking about with it again well I hope you found the video useful if you need to remove your door panel for whatever reason there's not much in there to be honest it'll either be the window regulator the motor or the lock that's about the extent of it but I hope it was useful anyway and I look forward to bringing you another video very soon thank you and goodbye